Pattern Making -- Drafting 1930s Lingerie, Blouses, Skirts and Sp­ortswear Fashions

Originally published in 1937, this rare book was written from two aspects of pattern making -- creating your own drawn to measure patterns and adjusting commercial patterns to fit the differences in your body versus "stock size" patterns.

Drawn to measure patterns use your own body measurements and allow for individual irregularities to be accounted for when making garments. To begin, the author has you measure your body. You then learn the fundamental principles of pattern making by making simple garments with simple modifications -- perfect for beginning pattern makers and sewers. You'll start out with simple patterns including: scarf, cravat, dressing wraps, nightgown with loose sleeve bands, sunbathing top, simple brassiere, french knickers, circular collar and matching circular cuffs, flared jabot.

The remaining chapters teach you how to create specific types of foundation patterns -- magyar, bodice, dressing gown, one piece, knicker, petticoat and skirt -- with which all other garments throughout the book are created. Using these foundation patterns as a base, you can create many different garments from one foundation pattern, combine different foundation patterns to make even more garments and use your newly learned drafting skills to create your own designs.

For adjusting commercial patterns, the author explains in detail and with diagrams how to lengthen and shorten patterns by simply adding/removing paper, making a dart-like pleat to adjust shoulder lines, and how to adjust the neck of a pattern. Testing paper patterns (by trying them on), preparing material for cutting, folding material for cutting, and planning out the pattern are also covered in detail.

Over 70 garments can be made using this book and even more using your own combinations with the foundation patterns. Sample pattern images are shown at the top of this page.